Monday, April 6, 2009

fall in love on woman's wear *

男人穿女裝這個課題有很多人已經討論過,而這種現象亦不是今日才出現,想當年的Boy George、David Bowie或Marc Bolan已經身先士卒,衛道之士會將這種現象看成為不淪不類的易服癖風氣,相反支持者繼續大無畏精神,將男裝女裝一體化。在Transvestic Fetishism與Metrosexual style之間的取決是技術性問題,想做Rupaul或是Hedi Slimane,你自己揀吧!
男人穿女裝有甚麼大不了,我本人一直對女裝抱開放態度,我說的當然不是碎花裙或喱士上衣。舉個例子,Martin Margiela的Line 4是一條高級女裝系列,但他的西裝外套剪裁跟Dior Homme分別不大,既然穿得下又為何不可。屈指一算,我的衣櫃都有數件「扮得下男裝」的女裝衫,我相信跟我一樣買過女裝的男生大有人在,從來或從不會買女裝的男生會認為這是一種屬於Homosexual的行為表現。不得不承認,異性戀男生是絕不會對任何女裝有購買衝動,因為他們將男女界定得很清楚,男裝就是男裝,女裝就是女裝,某程度他們可活動的時裝層面是比同性戀男生狹窄,正因為某部分同性戀男生是不會介意將女裝穿上身。
已故的Kurt Cobain曾經穿過baby doll碎花裙在MV及雜誌封面亮相,在90年代初這個已脫離David Bowie時代的社會,Kurt那條碎花裙相比那些drag queen打扮來得更直接,那是一條徹頭徹尾的女裝裙,在當時的衝擊相當大,或許是他打破了異性戀男人穿女裝的禁忌。為什麼他會穿裙子,他在《Melody Maker》雜誌中解釋說:「因為我覺得它令我很舒服,很性感,我不認為這是一個破壞性的舉動。」Gun’s N Roses主音Axel Rose亦將半截裙當成制服穿著,還有日後張國榮的Jean Paul Gaultier版本,其實這些只屬於一種on stage現象,那是出於好玩與反社會的心態。
今日社會男生穿女裝的心態,跟明星的心態是兩回事,最大差別就是今日的口號只會從時裝角度出發。在市面的男裝品牌雖然有很多,但某些款式就可能只會在女裝出現或只會是女裝品牌才有的。Chanel的tweed jacket是最佳例子,是只此一家的嘜頭,看看本地化妝師Zing有多迷戀它,他擁有的Chanel tweed jacket數量比一些名媛還要多呢!聽聞友人的男同事早前亦穿了一件Chanel tweed jacket,Hedi Slimane亦有Chanel的tweed jacket,這證明了甚麼?大概是一般的男裝已經滿足不到他們,而同時他們又要強調要將這些女裝穿得不像女裝,正是男穿女服要遵守的基本原則,若有差池就變成易服男。舉多個例子,是Hermes的Birkin手袋,它是一個不折不扣的女裝手袋,女人愛它愛到死,被時裝人一致捧為潮流聖物。在好幾年前就已經有男生拿它做手袋,我遇過的都有好幾個,他們喜歡的原因都不外乎貪其貴氣,但女人手袋始終是女人手袋,最大型號40亦都是女人手袋一個,可以成功將Birkin bag男性化的活生生例子是零,拿Birkin的男人只會將自己變得更女人,或許有人認為這才是Metrosexual style的最高級表現。
另一種會穿女裝的心態,就是男生身型問題,我相信絕大部分個子瘦削的男生是很難買到合適尺碼的男裝,合適的男裝品牌非常有限,Dior Homme的出現雖然是曙光,但並不是所有男裝品牌都會做男裝44或46尺碼,在沒有選擇的情況下,最後唯有在女裝品牌尋求可穿性的衣服。其實細心觀察,有些女裝品牌都會有一些很中性的設計或剪裁,最普通是T-恤背心或cardigan之類,沒有修腰或打胸褶的女裝,其實也可以當男裝穿。
Metrosexual style已經成為一個很國際化的形容詞,代表了男穿女服,女穿男服的時尚現象,而且還要是最前衛的一派。但請記著我們不是Kurt Cobain這些性格巨星,不是隨便拿件女裝來穿都可以,只要揀得其所,穿女裝又有甚麼大不了。
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a special new about fashion
we can see woman's wear and man'swear are already fused together.
also, Marc Jacobs loves to wear half-cutting skirt recently.
it seems a expression to show a new collection about it (?)

look forward *

Thursday, April 2, 2009

OTHER BRAND NAME PHOTO:]


here are some collection from other designer,
which also usinf black,white,grey as their maiin colour story,
:]

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Marc Jacobs fall2008 RTW*

































"We're ready, we're ready to start the show." That was Marc Jacobs himself, addressing the audience from the stage (stage, not runway) at 7:11 p.m. At 7:17, as Kevin Federline was still taking his seat in one of the makeshift, nightclub-style VIP booths not far from Selma Blair, Gretchen Mol, and Helena Christensen, Sonic Youth struck the first dissonant chord of "Jams Run Free," and Jacobs' first model walked out past the band. She wore a shawl-collar pouch-back coat in a shade that looked like camel, although we can't say for sure, concert lighting not being the best kind to illuminate such details. (One thing was immediately clear—whether he shows on a Friday or a Monday, it's always going to be an event.)The day switch and that revolutionary mere-17-minutes-behind-schedule start time weren't the only changes since last season. If Spring was all about sex, overt sex specifically, this show—his old friend Kim Gordon's gyrations notwithstanding—had a willfully sedate quality.Afterward, when asked about his inspirations, Jacobs replied, "I really wasn't very inspired this season. I just live my life." OK. When pressed, he offered a few more words: "Calm. Glamour. Casual. Beautiful women." Vague as that sounds, it was in fact an apt description for a collection that hinted at the eighties of Jacobs' early days in New York. It was there in the puffy headbands the models wore around their foreheads and the clubby atmosphere inside the Armory (some said it gave them Regine's, though the set's menacing scaffolding and the unsettling black-and-white images that played on a screen behind the band also suggested a more downtown environment). And it was there in the palette of soft pastels and grays and the relaxed (in terms of shape, not sensibility), somewhat masculine cut of the classic clothes.Jacobs showed plain-front button-downs with straight skirts; almost preppy popcorn-knit sweaters with narrow shorts; a cashmere sweater that spelled out HARDCORE paired with baggy leather pants; and a thigh-length bomber over a full, shin-grazing skirt. But his big focus was jackets and coats, many of which came with vertical folds of fabric gathered in the back above wide, hip-slung sashes. Dresses, too, came with pronounced volumes at the back. For evening, their stiff folds were replaced by gold or silver lamé pantsuits (paging Loulou de la Falaise) and drippy bias-cut velvet gowns.Was this collection, in its relative tameness and intriguing air of sexless safety, a rebuff of sorts to last season's detractors, who reprimanded Jacobs as much for his off-the-wall collection as for his perennial lateness? Could be. These clothes are challenging for different reasons than were the difficult transparent pieces he featured for Spring, but they'll be no less coveted. As for the show's accessories, women everywhere will have Jacobs to thank when other designers follow his lead and start producing a lower heel. That's the power of Jacobs' mystique.

for this collection,
soft hues are used ,
grey,white,orange,blue

Triadic Color Scheme is used ,



Monday, March 30, 2009

Marc Jacobs fall2009 RTW*


Marc Jacobs fall2009 RTW*











Leave it to Marc Jacobs to deliver a neon-hued, big-shouldered, crimpy-haired eighties antidote to the gloom and doom of 2009. "I was thinking about the good old days in New York," he said after the show, "when getting dressed up was such a joy." By the good old days, Jacobs means the nights he spent at clubs like Area, the Palladium, and Paradise Garage. Maybe it was the recent Stephen Sprouse project he completed at Louis Vuitton, or perhaps it's the fact that he now lives in Paris full time, but his Fall show was a big, juicy nostalgic kiss to a city that doesn't really exist anymore.The show started simply enough, with a gray cardigan sweater and charcoal trousers, but when the model walked past, you saw the back half of a kilt and braces—Jacobs' new uniform—and knew it was going to get personal. He worked his way through little silver-and-black A-line shifts; party dresses in metallic leathers and floral brocades with flaring, full skirts and monster shoulders; velvet bustier tops and high-waisted over-dyed jeans; and Crayola-bright jackets, capes, and hooded coats.


The only filter that separated these clothes from their East Village forebears was the expensive, luxury fabrics they came in. Every girl had a different hairdo, shellacked into Mohawks, flips, and bouffants, and the makeup was straight off the album cover of Duran Duran's Rio. The cumulative effect of all that color, volume, and optimism? One editor called it "A Flock of Seagulls meets Alexis Carrington."Will fashion as outrageously ebullient as this—in some cases, make that just plain outrageous—sell in the harsh reality of the late aughts? (And talking about harsh: More than 1,000 people were nixed from the invitation list this season in a cost-cutting slash and burn.) Jacobs insists that he wasn't thinking about the economy when he was working on the collection, and maybe he wasn't. These days, wagering that women will splash out on feel-good clothes is as good a bet as any.

















as we can seethe collection , it use different colour scheme to perform his MJcollection ,
like, complementary, trid, etc,
on the fashion show, at the beginning , it firstly shows the grey, sliver , black whick is dark colour of his collection , and then , bright hues are spotlighted on the show !! and finally , the colour changed to dark again to show the show is finish :]

it just like our life with different period with ups and downs,
colour make our life with hopes but should not be sad :]

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Sunday, March 29, 2009

Friday, March 27, 2009

Marc Jacobs spring2009*





for Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2009* collection,
the main hues are blue,yellow,red, white
and the accent hues are green ,purple










as we can see on the details of this collection,
different materials are used on,
like different pattern , checks, snake,etc..
surprisingly, it does not give a "too much"feeling .




for the collection,
it is using the
Triadic Color Scheme
This scheme uses the colors at 120º around the color wheel (360º).

Monday, March 23, 2009

about Marc Jacobs*

Marc Jacobs

He is arguably the most influential fashion designer in the world—and definitely one of the most talked about. Marc Jacobs has a flair for drawing attention, whether the headlines are about the endlessly analyzed looks on his runway, his buff new gym body, or the ups and downs of his personal life.Jacobs is, as many of these fashion chroniclers have noted, a bellwether, pointing audiences and buyers toward trends to come.

A chameleon and a quick-change artist, he often mines a particular theme or style—mod, volume, layers, to name a few—only to discard it entirely the next season, just as the rest of the world is getting on board the train. According to Women's Wear Daily, he is one of the few designers "who can in successive seasons present collections that are diametrically opposed to one another yet look signature."The Marc Jacobs stamp is that of unstudied cool, always with antiauthoritarian or outsider undertones—the irony is that between the various lines he produces under his own label and his work at Louis Vuitton, he is about as much of an insider authority as one man could be. Whatever his latest craze, the look is going to be pretty but not too polished, feminine but not too provocative, hip but never trying too hard. Having much-gossiped-about stars (from Lil' Kim to Victoria Beckham to his friend and muse Sofia Coppola) crowded into his front rows only keeps the headlines rolling off the presses.A graduate of Parsons, the New York City native launched his line alongside his current business partner, Robert Duffy, in 1986 with the backing of a Japanese company. In 1989, Jacobs was appointed the creative director of Perry Ellis, but was notoriously fired in 1992 after presenting his then-reviled Grunge collection (now, naturally, hailed as a seminal nineties moment). Emerging as an indie darling over the next few years, Jacobs accepted the position of creative director at Louis Vuitton in 1997, in part to finance the Marc Jacobs business, which LVMH subsequently bought. Today, Marc Jacobs is a global brand that also produces menswear, accessories, childrenswear, home furnishings, jewelry, watches, and fragrances…and the Man of Contradictions has taken home seven major awards from the CFDA.
*****

about Marc Jacobs


different poeple has different point of view about Marc Jacobs ,
overall, Marco Jacobs gives a new views of fashion design and it always gie us surprise on the following season.
NEVER INSIPID